Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Point Reyes



The summer heat was bumming me out. It was promising to be another 100+-degree day inland so it was time for a daytrip to the coast to look for cooler temperatures. I picked Point Reyes because of its high cliffs, incredible views and varied terrain.

We got more than I had had hoped for. Elk, warm sandy beaches washed over by brisk Pacific waters, chilling breezes and a whale.

Cattle too. I didn’t remember the cattle. It’s a fact, though, that in this large state park there are more cattle than people. Interesting that there are historic ranches here, smack in the middle of a state park, but it does mean that visitors can drive mile after mile past fenced-off terrain before getting to the next beach access.

We found a nice trail at Tomales Point – basically at the farthest tip north, away from the lighthouse. It’s easy to find. Just go until the road ends. A couple of minutes before you get to that point, though, is where we saw dozens of elk. They are here by human intent as this portion of the peninsula was dedicated toward a reserve and they apparently are penned in by cattle guards and ocean cliffs.

Traveler’s tip: On a Monday, we drove for miles, hiked two trails and walked along two different beaches without seeing more than a dozen other people. This is California in the summer? We loved it!

The short trail at Tomales Point leads from the cliff down to the beach. It’s not too difficult – I’d say it would be classified as easy for most people. The large beach felt remote, partly because it was empty and partly because it was sheltered by the cliffs. Seeing as I’m a person who doesn’t always like to share, this remote and empty beach felt pretty good to me.


The best was toward the end of our day when we drove to the other end of the park, to the lighthouse. I was ready to forego the lighthouse since I’ve seen so many that I expected a "seen-one-seen-them-all" experience. But I was with my daughter and her boyfriend who were pretty psyched about seeing it so we drove the extra half hour out to the far point.

The point announced itself about a mile before we got there. After enjoying a perfectly sunny day, we suddenly saw bursts of fog rolling over us, crossing from one side of the peninsula to the other. The car started rocking slightly from gusts of wind as we wound our way around a few turns. It seemed like anything could be around the next curve in the road.

“This doesn’t seem real,” my daughter said. “It’s like a ride at Disneyland.”

It’s a short walk from the parking lot to the lighthouse visitor’s center, but just another traveler’s note here. This is where all the people are, and the parking lot is small. We were lucky to grab a spot but many people had to park a quarter of a mile away. If you can’t walk far, those with handicapped badges can drive on farther to a dedicated lot closer to the center.

I hadn’t expected to see whales this time of year, but the ranger told us there were a couple of pairs hanging around. We looked from a viewing platform out at the 180-degree vantage point, but the fog made any sightings unlikely. The wind was also a factor here – while it was only lightly breezy at other parts of the peninsula, this tip is buffeted frequently by winds that hit 35 miles an hour and above.



At this point, there was a decision to be made and it had to do with the 350 stairs (or like a 30-story building, a sign at the top warns visitors) that climbed down to the lighthouse. For me, it was a no-go. I had walked enough for the day. For a couple of 22-year-olds, it was an easy decision and they were off, carrying my camera so I could have a picture tour when they returned.


 Wouldn’t you know? A California gray whale gave them a great showing, coming right up to the cliff. I was informed that the trip down was worth the journey, with a ranger offering a tour of the lighthouse. But they agreed the hike back up was tougher than it looks. I was content with the pictures.

It had been a pretty full day and it was time to head back home. For a daytrip, Point Reyes was the perfect getaway.

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