Have dog, will travel

We’d been here before, so long ago. Mendocino hasn’t changed much though, other than to get a little more touristy.

This sounds bad, but isn’t in this case. This quaint little village is simply a tourist get-away, filled with tiny local restaurants, a smattering of shops and numerous galleries. Bed and breakfasts abound. 

The change we noticed from 17 years past is a bit of shine and polish to an old fishing town huddled on a peninsula on California’s north coast. It’s not overdone and the charm hasn’t gone away.

It’s known for a few things: abalone fishing, being an artist haven, Victorian architecture and a dog-friendly culture. That last point is why we attempted this trip with our sheltie.

Traveling with a dog most of the time limits where you go. We needed a place to stay that would accept pets. Turns out that lots of places in Mendocino are open to this, with rooms set aside specifically for people who can’t bear to leave their loved one at home.

The Seaside Cottages, a Victorian-styled house with attached cottages, turned out to be the perfect spot for us. We had a studio with a fireplace, kitchenette and private deck that had sweeping views of the headlands and Pacific Ocean.

The owner wheeled up a barbecue grill on our request and delivered a gratis bottle of champagne. Sounds pricey but the owner was eager to rent the room. My last-minute booking led him to offer a hefty discount before I even asked.

Then we were off to explore.

This is absolutely a great place to travel with a dog. Water bowls are set out on nearly every block. What surprised me the most was the willingness of stores to allow dogs inside. Even a high-end antique store allowed us to walk through.

We strolled through art galleries, gardens and gift shops. Only one store had a sign saying dogs were not allowed... unless they were carried.

There were also several restaurants that allowed dogs on their patios and we took advantage of these places.

Of course, there was the beach. 

And the beach.

And the beach.

Northern California beaches are wild, rocky, with surfs that are unpredictable and dangerous. The water is frigid and unwelcoming. Steep cliffs make access challenging. Fog drifts in unscheduled. For me, this makes the north coast mesmerizing and beautiful.

The only disappointment was we had planned to visit Van Damme State Park and were turned away by the ranger. No dogs on trails there. I had been looking forward to the fern forest. 

The ranger though gave us a great alternative that was just five minutes away. She gave us a map that directed us to an old logging road that paralleled the Mendocino River and led us up into the pines. Parking was free (versus the $8 entry fee at Van Damme) and views were satisfying. We hiked about until exhaustion and hunger set in.

We dropped off our sheltie for a well-deserved nap back at our studio and headed into town. Patterson’s, a bar and restaurant, beckoned. Inside was the kind of clam chowder you want from a seaside spot -- thick, creamy, with tender chunks of clams. A draft beer and garlic bread on the side rounded off a perfect mid-afternoon meal.

Sometimes it's hard revisiting a place that holds fond memories. Places age, lose their local flavor, or just don't measure up to the memory. Mendocino, though, holds up pretty darn well.